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Inside this peculiar open-air museum, gigantic monuments of Red Army soldiers stand next to busts of Lenin, while heroic...
20/12/2022

Inside this peculiar open-air museum, gigantic monuments of Red Army soldiers stand next to busts of Lenin, while heroic reliefs of Hungarian workers sit by statues of former communist leaders. And at a time when many countries around the world are grappling with the purpose and meaning of statues, this Budapest site offers a potential model for discussing historical monuments, rather than simply removing them.

Located outside a former sports arena in a Budapest suburb, the boots seemed in the unlikeliest of locations – but this ...
20/12/2022

Located outside a former sports arena in a Budapest suburb, the boots seemed in the unlikeliest of locations – but this was in fact the entrance to what might be one of the world's most curious tourist attractions. Describing itself as "Central Europe's first thematic museum that reminds people of a dictatorship and its fall", Memento Park is a graveyard for communist statues toppled during the country's transition to democracy.

Eleőd meticulously designed Memento Park's layout to represent the dark undertones of dictatorship, and I realised that ...
18/12/2022

Eleőd meticulously designed Memento Park's layout to represent the dark undertones of dictatorship, and I realised that its nuances ran much deeper than my first impression.

With its high quotient of s*x, drugs and excellent dance tunes, it also manages to be racy without feeling gratuitously ...
15/12/2022

With its high quotient of s*x, drugs and excellent dance tunes, it also manages to be racy without feeling gratuitously so, convincingly capturing a state of being where constant hangovers are set off by the desperate need to succeed. Bring on series three. (HM)

Hugging the desert's edge, the family soon arrived at the slopes of Mount Qusqam, their most hallowed stop. It was here ...
12/12/2022

Hugging the desert's edge, the family soon arrived at the slopes of Mount Qusqam, their most hallowed stop. It was here that at last an angel told Joseph that Herod was dead and that it was safe to return North. The holy ground here is encircled by a fortress-like monastery known as Al-Muharraq. Considered a "Second Bethlehem" by Coptic Christians, the site is believed to have hosted the family for six months, far longer than any other stop on the route.

Our pace quickened from Mam Barrisdale, downhill now all the way to glittering Inverie Bay. A resident, tinkering with a...
10/12/2022

Our pace quickened from Mam Barrisdale, downhill now all the way to glittering Inverie Bay. A resident, tinkering with a boat in his driveway, regarded us with kindly concern as we plodded past on our approach to the village. We carried about us the essence of the bog, smeared in mud and smelling for all the world like a badger had died in one of our bags. But soon we rounded a corner and Inverie's tiny main drag revealed itself: a succession of little white houses, with a pub sign heralding the Old Forge at their centre. We had made it.

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