20/11/2023
2024 Super-Stock class
General Rules & Regulations:
ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL!!
1. Any American made car can run with the following exceptions: No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial Sub Frames, No 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, convertibles (frames or full cars etc). No manipulating a wagon’s roof to create a sedan.
2. All drivers must sign driver’s paperwork before being inspected or they will not run the event
3. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet & fire suit jacket.
4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting before each event. Driver’s meeting are always approx. 30 minutes before the event showtime.
5. No drivers are allowed any alcohol or drugs before their event. If found drinking alcohol or under the influence while wearing a driver’s band you will be disqualified for the remainder of the event.
6. Cars may be inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be inspected by the Officials only. Everyone else will stay back until the car is deemed legal.
7. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
8. Call or text Justin Lenox 719-688-4759 with any questions Do not assume anything call first. .
9. All Gray areas will be brought to light with a torch.
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T
SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T! GRAY AREA’S WILL BE BROUGHT TO LIGHT WITH A TORCH
Car Preparation:
NO PAINTING OR UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRIDING FRAMES OR BODIES EXCEPT WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICIALLY ALLOWED IN THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF THE BODY OR CAR. IF THIS IS DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions: NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, convertible frames or full cars etc…
2. All cars must be stock unless modification is specifically stated in these rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered.
6. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the hoist. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Bumper/Bumper brackets:
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to run in your class and on only one side of the frame. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods.
First way – factory bumper bracket that is legal to a car in your class may not extend any further back than the first 10” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only).
You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart to lengthen.
OR
Second way - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 1/4” thick plate extending from your bumper down either a side, or the top, or bottom of the frame choose only one cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 10”. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate Must stay flat no reconfiguring plate.
Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT.
You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off.
The bumper may be built up to have a 14” point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the point over a 36” span and 8” tall. Bumpers can be manufactured but MUST be to the specs of original bumper. Will be checking this. Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame.
Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails
Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 10” on the frame.
Wagons do not weld the bumpers to the body.
Frame Shortening:
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches from the back of the bumper to the front of the spring pocket.
Frame Welding:
NO FRAME WELDING.
NO TILTING.
NO COLD BENDING
Rust Repair – Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
Frame Shaping – NO frame shaping is allowed.
Front Suspension:
Tie Rods and Ball Joints
Stock tie rods and tie rod tubes only no reinforcement.
Stock ball joints no screw in or weld in ball joints STOCK REPLACEMENT ONLY.
No pickup or van tie rod ends.
A-Arms –
A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class. DO NOT WELD A ARMS SOLID!
Steering box –
May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
Idler Arm –
Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
Hubs –
Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles
Spindles –
Must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
Rear Suspension:
Leaf springs must be the stock springs that came on the car. You are allowed 4 clamps per leaf pack. Clamps may be no bigger than 2”x4” x ¼ inch strap. With 2 bolts per strap. Do NOT wrap with tape.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other way.
You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount.
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. Max chain link size 3 ¼” OD. You may use a 1” bolt or all thread from your rear end housing to the package tray. You may use both the chain and the 1” bolt to help hold rear end in car.
You cannot leaf spring a factory coil spring car.
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS 98-newer FOMOCO CARS
• They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. Bolts No welding of the upper brackets to package tray.
• The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail.
• The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford.
• Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 3” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located.
• All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
• No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
Trailing arms:
Both upper and lower must be a factory non loaded trailing arm. Must use a factory trailing arm for a car approved for this class. May shorten or lengthen with 2-inch overlap.
Rear- Ends:
-Use rear end of choice.
• You can tilt rear end if you wish.
• Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
• No changing out rear package trays on frame.
• Rear end control arms cannot be reinforced.
They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups.
Tires:
Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok. Valve
stem protectors are ok. Tire and wheels are unlimited other than what is stated above.
Motor:
• Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
• Mid Plates are NOT allowed.
• Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
• YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector.
• NO Distributor protectors or Full cradles!!
• Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything.
Transmission Brace, Bell Housing & Plate:
You may run a transmission brace with the following guidelines:
1. Transmission brace must follow the contour of the transmission and never extend more than 2 inches off the case.
2. Transmission brace may only be attached to the engine by the bell housing bolts. Nothing to the heads, spacer plate, or underneath.
3. You may run a steel bell and tail with the brace.
4. Transmission must have 3 inches of unobstructed slide before "locking " in. No bolting, welding, or chaining to hold the transmission tight if using a transmission brace.
5. Transmission tunnel must be slit length ways the distance of the transmission if running a brace.
6. Trans mount area may be up to 12 inches wide, but has to maintain the 3 inches of slide throughout.
7. You are allowed 1 loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with one link welded per side or bolt it down with 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone.
8. May run a bell housing spacer if you have a short bell. May only be attached thru the bell housing bolts.
9. Must stay below the heads and a maximum of 2 inches wider than the bell housing itself and not allowed to come in contact with the sheet metal or cage at any time.
Transmission Cross Member:
-You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission. This can be out of another car legal for this class,
OR
- use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission. You may also use 2x2x4x1/4 inch angle iron to tie cross member to the frame. If using this method you must have 2 ½ inch holes drilled into the tr**ny cross member to check thickness.
-Tr**ny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only.
-The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.
Body
Body Shaping:
Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT.
#9 Wire:
-You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators:
Radiators must be mounted in the stock location.
NO Auxiliary Cooling.
NO radiator guards allowed.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole. Your car will not run.
If you have to build core support spacers you may not weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square or round material.
The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole.
Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hood & Front Clip:
-Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 6 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 6 bolts.
You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length!
All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars.
MAX 8 Spots. 1 wrap of 3/8 chain or 1 wrap of #9 wire counts as a fastener. Hinges count as fasteners if used.
- If using angle iron you are allowed 2”x2”x4”x ¼” Pieces bolted with 1 , ½” bolts max.
- You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
- Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
- You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. No rolling your fenders and welding them.
Windshield Bar & Firewall:
Firewall-
you are allowed to cut firewall out for engine clearance do not use to reinforce the car.
Window Bar-
For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps.
No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.
Or
2x2x1/4 square tubing connecting the dash bar to the halo bar choose one or the other option not both.
Doors
Drivers door can be plated, Filled with concrete, we want you safe.
-you may weld your front 2 doors solid with 3/8 rod or 3”x1/8” Strap.
Rear doors can be wired or chained shut, or 12 inches of 3x1/8 strap welded per door. Any excess will be removed completely from the car.
-You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 6” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward. The driver door you can weld completely shut with the 3” by 1/8 strapping. No overlap.
Cage
All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for specific rule smaller. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down that includes being 4” off of the transmission/tunnel. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Side bars including roll over may be a max length of 62 inches long. NO BARS CAN COME IN CONTACT WITH THE FRAME!
Gas Tank Protector - You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must be a full 3” away from rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all.
Engine oil coolers and transmission coolers are allowed.
These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
AFTERMARKET PARTS THAT ARE ALLOWED:
• Transmission cooler
• Oil cooler
• Gas and brake pedal
• Shifter
• Headers
• Driveshaft (Sliders)
• Motor mounts with rubber bushing
• Steering column
• Lower cradle
• Transmission brace
Trunks
• -Trunks cannot be welded. Trunks can have 6 spots holding trunks down max. Hinges count as 2 of your fasteners.
• Trunk lids must remain on hinges.
• You are allowed to tuck trunk.
• NO WEDGES OR SEDAGONS.
• NO WELDING ON TRUNK
• (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, it must pass through a body mount.
• 1 wrap of 3/8 chain, one wrap of # 9 wire, or 1 inch all thread counts as a fastener.
You can change the 4 rear body mounts and suck the body down tight all other body mounts should be stock and untouched.
You are allowed 1 inch all thread in the front 2 body mounts and the rear 4 body mounts all other mounts must remain stock. With stock body mount bushings.
-all Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components.
All other rules above must be followed.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. Tierods must be stock.
4. Struts, spindles and a arms may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and fabbing to make it work.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like Grey Area or Budde cradle or you can grab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain ½ inch off the side rail.
6. Repair plates may not be used to tie cradle into the rails.
7. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
8. Must follow all other rules
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR.
IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CANT.
JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL!!!
FIX IT PLATES YOU ARE ALLOWED 4 4”x6”x1/4 PLATE PER FRAME RAILS. PRE RAN CARS ONLY!!!
FRESH CARS GET 2 PLATEs PER RAIL 4”X6”X1/4”
Plates cannot be cut apart and spread out.
Once a plate is welded on the frame is cannot be cut off and moved.
You may Re-Stub a car with the same make and model and year of car you started with.
