Ian and Beths Camino Blog

17/10/2023

Rainy Santiago.

17/10/2023

Goodnight Santiago.

17/10/2023

17/10/2023

Final blog after our pilgrim mass, with a few reflections on our Camino.
Personally this was an act of devotion and worship. Despite not being Roman Catholic I never felt anything other than wholly immersed in the original intention behind the Camino.
When you collect your Compostela, you are asked to tick one of 3 boxes as the reason for doing the Camino: ‘religious’, ‘non-religious’ and ‘other’. I’m not entirely clear how the last two options are in any way mutually exclusive, but evidently if you are not motivated by faith, you have two ways to express it. I would say that those motivated by faith were in the small minority, save for the last 100km.
For me I did recognise the 3 phases of the Camino: first third physical, second third mental (as you slog your way over the meseta), and final third spiritual as you close in on SdC and reflect on your journey.
I am slightly worried for the Camino because it is increasingly secular and younger (you can live on the Camino for €30/day if you want), although the pilgrim masses at SdC are always rammed, so something is happening. Perhaps a bigger concern is the potential for a shift from a Christian focus to a merely spiritual one. I could see the Camino becoming increasingly Glastonburyesque (all crystals, yoga and mindfulness). That would be consistent with what’s going on everywhere else in the world, but a shame for the Camino nonetheless.
Finally I would recommend doing it. You’ll definitely find space for reflection, get fitter and it’s very likely you’ll make some new lifelong friends. We certainly did.

I sang hymns all along the Way come sun, rain or aches and pains. The final word is given to God as I sang these two favourites.

‘Whatever my lot, thou has taught me to say; It is well, it is well, with my soul!

Jesus what can I give? What can I bring? To so faithful a friend, to so loving a king?
Saviour what can be said? What can be sung?As a praise of your name, for the things you have done?
O my words could not tell, not even in part, of the debt of love that is owed by this thankful heart.

16/10/2023

Day 33: 19.8km from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela.
We made it! It was raining from mid-morning but we were in good spirits walking into SdC.
About half way we pass through A Lavacolla, which has special significance. It was the crossing point of the final river (now a stream) before SdC and where pilgrims would wash and put on clean clothes before entering the city. Codex Calixtinus, the 12thC guide, requires a ritual washing process called ‘lavamentula’, which euphemistically might be translated as “pits and bits” (acknowledgment to old Latin classmate, Jane Hall, for her guidance on this). Anyway, no-one was washing today: it was freezing.
It clearly didn’t make much difference in the end, for the oft-quoted reason why the botofumeiro (incense burner) in SdC cathedral is soooo huge, is to overpower the stench of all the pilgrims. I wasn’t too fragrant myself, tbh.
We arrived soon after midday and met with many friends who had done it with us. We also went and got our compostelas (in Latin) and a certificate of completion showing the distance walked.
The final numbers:
797.0km/497.6miles
17,095 metres ascent/ 55,542 ft
1,317,460 steps.
Our certificate only says 779km, so we walked 18km extra, mostly around churches but the occasional wrong turn…
Beth and I have been overwhelmed by all your messages and prayers of support and encouragement. We thank you all. There will be some final thoughts as we celebrate and journey home but as tired as we are, we are on cloud 9 as we recall the experience and emotions of the last 33 days. We will celebrate tonight with friends and lie In tomorrow. (Apparently the noon mass is the one where they swing the botofumeiro, so that will be a priority tomorrow, along with laundry, cos we’re wet and smelly).

16/10/2023

Made it!

15/10/2023

Hotel Amiuka is not the usual Camino lodging we’ve become accustomed to….

15/10/2023

Day 32: 21.3km from Arzúa to O Pedrouzo.
We are around 20km from Santiago. It’s getting closer….
We have a group of pilgrim friends who have been with us all the way from St Jean who we hope to meet up with in SdC tomorrow to celebrate. We’re all feeling quite emotional.
Today was wet so we just kept plodding on and arrived at O Pedrouzo before noon, only to find that we couldn’t check in to our modern eco-hotel (all pine and glass) until 3pm. So we sat in our damp clothes for 3 hours in a nearby cafe.
I went to Pilgrim mass again and we had a nice supper at our hotel but forgot to take photos.
Off to bed early - big day tomorrow.

14/10/2023

Goodnight Arzúa

14/10/2023

Day31: 29.7km from Palas de Rei to Arzúa. Arzúa is the confluence of the Camino Francés (our walk) and the Camino del Norte, which starts right up in the most easterly point in Spain on the Bay of Biscay and tracks the coast westward before crossing the Cantabrian mountains from the north.
God willing, this was our last long day. Nearly 30km arriving at our pensión around 2.45pm. Fortunately the weather was perfect for a long day: dry and bright but good cloud cover, so it was not too hot.
We had 9 separate climbs today, up and down like the proverbial. Nearly 600 metres of ascent. It was like the South West Coastal path but without the cream teas.
We are building up an impressive photo stock of horreos, but we have still to understand their particular significance. We also walked through a fragrant forest of eucalyptus trees, which sorted out my runny nose.
We have under 40km to go to Santiago and I have 5 spaces left in my Pilgrim passport. As I understand it, you need to be able to show two different stamps per day from the 100km so we’re playing safe and trying to get three. But then you don’t want to run out of space on your passport… it gets very complicated.
Expecting wet weather tomorrow but it’s only a 20km day. Beth decided to invest €4.50 in a new poncho in anticipation.
We went again to the pilgrim mass In Arzúa, which, as with last night, was very well attended. What is the mass at Santiago going to be like?

13/10/2023

Day 30: 26.8km from Portomarin to Palas De Rei.
Today was cloudy and rainy - the first in 4 weeks.
According to ‘Codex Calixtinus’, the 12thC authority on the Camino, the section of the way after Portomarin has a number of outdoor brothels for the, ahem, physical comforts of pilgrims that aren’t being met by the albergues. All I can say, dear Pilgrim-in-Spirit, is that I kept my eyes peeled (for the purpose of research, obvs) for any sign of al fresco nookie and found none whatsoever. By which I conclude that Codex Calixtinus is FOS. I will stick with our guide, good old Rev Sandy Brown, whose information has never been found wanting.
The Camino is heaving with people. We went to the Pilgrim Mass here in Palas De Rei and it was full. A lovely, relatively new church, albeit with an original 12thC porch on the front.
Only 3 days walking left.

13/10/2023

Goodnight Palas de Rei!

12/10/2023

We have just four days of walking to Santiago. The Lord willing we will be standing in front of the cathedral on Monday afternoon. This evening as we had dinner and met Camino trail friends, it felt a bit like the last week in high school. We set up a WhatsApp group so that we can meet for the all-important photos, where we will proudly display our Compostelas (much like a diploma) and have a celebratory meal together.

12/10/2023

Day 29: 22.7km from Sarria to Portomarin.
Dear reader, we had clouds today for the first time in 3 weeks! While the absence of rain has been a blessing on one hand, the heat has made afternoon trekking hard work.
Today we walked through rolling green pastures and woodland, reminiscent of the Cotswold. It was very Laurie Lee-esque. The sides of the road are dotted with stone markers which marked the original trail. How fortunate that the original trail was exactly the same width as a two lane country road!!!
It was a lot busier on the trail. As we looked back, soon after setting out, we saw a long chain of headtorches behind us. Quite spooky. Many of these newbies are wearing clean clothes and boots, which distinguishes them from us veterans. But the queues at the cafes are longer too, which is bad.
We saw our first Horreos, which are granaries but with a design which is exclusive to Galicia and Asturias. These are narrow, long structures, often ornately designed with either slatted sides or air bricks to provide air flow. They are raised to deter mice. These seem to have such prominence on properties that there must be more symbolism to these than the mere utilitarianism of grain or corn storage, but I have yet to find out what it is. When I know, so will you.
Portomarin has been serving pilgrims for over 1,000 years although no part of the town is older than the mid-1960s. “What? Has he gone doolally?” I hear you ask. No, dear reader. Portomarin old town was sacrificed to progress by Generalissimo Franco, who dammed the river 20miles downstream of Portomarin, which meant that the town had to be rebuilt 200 ft further up the hillside. Most buildings were newbuild obviously, although the original church was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt. You can still see the reference numbers on each stone block to make sure each stone was replaced in the same place it came from. The original bridge over the river can be seen about 100ft below the new, although at most times of the year it would be underwater.
Importantly, today, we passed the “100km to go” marker. We can do this!!!

11/10/2023

Day 28: 17.8km from Triacastela to Sarria.
End of week 4!!!
Week 4 numbers (Camino totals):
174.6km/109.0 miles (676.7km/422.5 miles)
4,550 metres ascent/14,788ft (13,955 metres/45,337ft)
284,774 steps (1,120,580 steps).
What a week!! We’ve arrived in Sarria which is the latest point on the Camino where you can start and still qualify for a Compostela. Apparently, more than half of all Camino walkers start from here. We are expecting it to be busy from here onwards, because it is also a long holiday weekend in Spain (celebrating that famous son of Spain, the Italian Christopher Columbus, discovering the Americas on 12 October 1492).
Today was a decent walk, a short climb in the dark followed by a steady descent into Sarria. Sarria isn’t really what I expected: its church only dates from the last decade of the 19thC but it also has a lovely monastery/albergue, which we were going to look into but felt we had to give way to a funeral party.
All over Sarria there’s little bits of art which acknowledge the Camino pilgrims: it’s really very sweet and a great encouragement.
Beth had another go at carrying her rucksack today. I think tomorrow we’ll revert to getting it transported…

10/10/2023

Day 27: 29.7km from Las Herrerias to Triacastela. A long day which we were quite anxious about beforehand but which was actually pretty good.
We started on the climb in the dark but that paid dividends later when we managed to finish around 2.30pm. In fact It would have been a really pleasant day’s walking if it wasn’t for the fact that it was our 27th consecutive day and there’s no part of our bodies which doesn’t ache. There were no road miles, just pleasant (often shady) pathways through pastures and villages. The descent, our biggest anxiety, turned out to be very straightforward. We have a lovely hotel room - brand spanking new.
Unsurprisingly, Triacastela gets its name from having three castles. But good luck finding them because apparently they were all destroyed by the Vikings in 968AD. And the church was shut.

09/10/2023

09/10/2023

Day 26: 22.0km from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias.
A relatively easy day although we were climbing steadily upwards all day, over 600m of ascent all told. We followed the river Valcares upstream the whole time, a lovely soothing sound of rushing water, especially in the dark. The main Madrid-Corunna motorway (interstate highway) also follows this valley and can often be seen suspended high above us (indicating that we have a steep section still to do).
The walking was lovely with pastures on each side, giving way to picturesque villages from time to time. We are staying overnight in such a village. We saw people collecting sweet chestnuts: I would love them to come to my garden and pick them up: they’re a pain the backside and clog up my mower….
This is our penultimate day in the mountains. Tomorrow will be a tough day with another 900m of ascent walking around 29km with a large descent at the end, when we leave the mountains.
Also this is our last night in the province of Castille y Léon, which we have been in since before Burgos. We started out, as readers who have been with us from the start will know, in the ancient kingdom/province of Navarra, then came into the small, but tasty, province of La Rioja before entering Castille y Léon. Tomorrow we enter our fourth and last Spanish province, Galicia.

08/10/2023

I just need to give a shoutout to this guy in the photo. He is a JACOtrans delivery man. Yes, this company picks up and delivers my bag to our destination each day. We have been using this service since about day 6! Ian still walks with his backpack. I’m still doing the Camino but just not carrying the backpack.

08/10/2023

I have to post this because I’m so proud of myself. At Vina Femita we have had:
A lovely private double room with en-suite bathroom and mountain view and;
Two delightful 3-course meals with a bottle of their own Bierzo wine and a large bottle of water and a Diet Coke and a bottle of beer.

Grand total : €79.

08/10/2023

Day 25: 24.1km from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo. We’re out of the meseta after yesterday’s long descent and back into greener countryside, with richer, redder soil with fruit and vineyards. Bierzo is a tiny wine region in NW Spain. It’s pretty good! (See below). We are ¾ of the way through the Camino now and have less than 200km to go.
A straightforward day, arriving at our hotel soon after noon. Our hotel (Vina Femita) was previously a winery but has been converted to a hotel and pilgrim dormitory. I’m sitting here having lunch and drinking their wine. We have laundry on the go and all is well with the world.
The main tourist sight in Villafranca is the Castle-palace of the Marquis of Villafranca which is in decent nick, which it should be since it only dates from the 18thC. Villafranca suffered hard during the Peninsular War being held at different times by the Spanish, French and British. However more interestingly, the current Marquis is also the 22nd Duke of Medina-Sidonia. He’s still getting over the fact that his ancestor, the 7th Duke, got his arse kicked by Sir Francis Drake at the battle of the Spanish Armada (aka “The Invincible Armada”) in 1588.
It’s an early post today. We will take siesta and then go into town later, so possibly more photos to come.

07/10/2023

Day 24: 34.6km (!!!) from Rabanel to Ponferrada.
Wow. This was our longest day so far and the hardest since the first day. We climbed c300m in the dark to get to Cruz de Ferro (where one of our pilgrim buddies released the ashes of his father-in-law) by sunrise. Shortly after this is the highest point on the Camino Frances at 1510m.
After that there was some steep downhill sections followed by a longish trek into Ponferrada. We were exhausted and munched our way through two pizzas in no time.
The basilica in Ponferrada is lovely but not that old, completed at the end of the 16thC. We were fortunate enough to see a wedding come out while we were waiting to get a stamp for our pilgrim passports.
There is a 12thC fortress built by the Kinghts Templar which is In really good condition. Once again however the knights were notable by their absence.

07/10/2023

Good night Ponferrada.

06/10/2023

Day 23: 21.1km from Astorga to Rabanel. Relatively easy day today, although in the latter part of the day we started the climb into the Western Cantabrian mountains. We’re spending the night at Rabanel which is nearly 1200m high before crossing over at 1500m tomorrow.
Rabanel has a Benedictine monastery which has been hosting pilgrims for hundreds of years. We went to a Vespers service in the monastery chapel where we chanted psalms and canticles in Latin. Finally, my C grade in O level Latin came good!!!
We are staying in a lovely little house converted into a 3 room hostel. It’s all a bit candles, crystals and joss-sticks for my taste but pretty nonetheless and there are some lovely details, such as individual wrapped loaves of gingerbread. We had our best meal yet at a restaurant with fellow pilgrims Dave (from Arizona) and Steve (from Chicago).
Rabanel, in the 12thC, had a garrison of Knights Templar to protect pilgrims from bandits as they set out over the mountains. Sorry to say that they’re no longer here.

05/10/2023

Goodnight Astorga!

05/10/2023

Day 22: 25.4km from San Martin to Astorga.

Today was a really good day: we took a monumental number of photos. Everywhere we passed through was just lovely, ending in Astorga which is also a delight. We are staying in a nice (well, 3 star) hotel with a tub! (It’s the little things…)
In the morning we breakfasted in Hospital de Obrigo, a lovely medieval town with a 200m bridge (which dates back to the 14thC, albeit restored). In 1434 there was famous 4 week long jousting tournament actually on the bridge where Don Suero, a Leonese knight, set down a challenge to allcomers to take him off the bridge. He ended undefeated, breaking more than 300 lances in the process. In the end it didn’t work out so well for Don Suero, who was killed in a joust 4 years later by someone he defeated in 1434.
Astorga is the European chocolate capital. Cacau was introduced to Spain in 1528 by Hernan Cortez and Astorga quickly established itself as a centre of chocolate excellence. In 1921 there were 51 artisan chocolatiers in the town itself, although only 4 remain.
Astorga was also the base of the British army in 1809 before the Battle of Corunna and several monuments in Astorga reflect positively on the defence of the region by the British. There is a plaque on a building recording the presence of Sir John Moore before the battle and the main square has a statue of the British Lion mauling a French eagle. (For those not familiar with the Peninsular War, Corunna was a defeat for the British, the Peninsular War equivalent of the WW2 Battle of France and Dunkirk evacuation, with the British falling back 200 miles to its strong defences around Lisbon, the famous “Lines of Torres Vedras” where the British rebuilt its army under General Arthur Wellesley (later Duke of Wellington) and in 1811/12 conducted a campaign from Lisbon right through Spain which kicked the French out and forced Napoleon to look East to enlarge his empire, a decision which ultimately led to his Waterloo.
Astorga cathedral is not the oldest (15thC Romanesque/Baroque style) or largest Cathedral on the Camino but it is a beautiful place of worship with a great visitor experience, including a VR tour which takes you right up to the vaulted ceiling and to the highest point on the roof. Just fantastic.
Finally, Astorga boasts a Gaudi-designed Episcopal Palace which, frankly, is an absurd 19thC Transylvanian folly that any self-respecting bishop should be embarrassed to enter.
Oh and Astorga also boasts hot springs and the ruins of a Roman baths.

04/10/2023

Day 21: 3 weeks in! Less than 2weeks (and under 300km) to go, God willing.
Weekly stats (Camino totals)

168.1 km/104.9miles (502.1/313.5)
1665 m/5411 ft of ascent (9405m/30,549ft)
271,773 steps (835,836).

Today was 25.6km from Léon to San Martin del Camino. Mostly spent the morning walking out of the industrial suburbs of Léon. Our guide book actually advised we took a bus instead for this section - but we are no “fair weather” pilgrims and are here for the full experience. Then we came across an unexpected gem, the Basilica of Virgen del Camino. This church was built in the 1960s which is generally a poor era for architecture, particularly sacred architecture. But this was quite stunning in its own way. The highlights were the brass sculptures above the doors, the actual doors themselves (which were solid brass, 3in thick) and a 53m (172ft) tall bell tower which stood entirely separate from the church. I found it inspiring and I clearly wasn’t alone: the church claims that certain Mass celebrations attract 50,000 celebrants!
Today we passed the 300km marker (mile markers always show the distance remaining TO Santiago) which we celebrated with fellow pilgrim and now great friend, Heidi, from Switzerland.

03/10/2023

Goodnight from Leon.

03/10/2023

Day 20: 18.9km from Mansilla de las Mulas to Léon. Relatively short day, arriving in Léon before 11am, which since we were able to check in early, gave us time to clean up and have a full afternoon checking out the city.
Ok. Here it is. THE definitive view, Léon vs Burgos.
Leon is larger, busier and bustlier with much more evidence of people working for a living.
Burgos is cleaner, more chic and trendy, prettier but more touristy.
Both have beautiful and magnificent cathedrals but FWIW, in my opinion Burgos cathedral is the more impressive.
Leon cathedral is a 13thC cathedral in classic Gothic style, with buttresses flying all over the place. Inside it was much more minimalist than Burgos, where the cathedral seems to emulate the flamboyance of the city, inside and out.
Also Burgos cathedral wins because there was a pilgrim discount on the entry fee. We know what counts.

02/10/2023

Day 19: 27.0km from Bercianos to Mansilla de las Mulas (which I think translates as “Two Mules for Sister Sara”). We were largely on the flat beside a road, so not too much to say about the day’s walk. We arrived at Mansilla around 1230 which allows time for personal admin, such as laundry. Mansilla is a pretty little place with large sections of its medieval wall stilll standing and some interesting sculptures. Highlight of the day was our stop for breakfast at a Cafe in El Burgo Ranero which sold a very delicious, fluffy, syrup-glazed French toast. If you weren’t walking 27km you might feel guilty, but the thing about the Camino is that all eating is completely guilt-free.