10/05/2025
Of all the albergues that litter the Camino Frances there is no finer establishment than Run by husband and wife team Susi and Fermin, their story (one day, surely, to be made into a film) goes as follows…Beautiful, blonde Aussi Susi walks the Camino 13 times and decides to buy a run down farmhouse to convert into an albergue. One year later she opens it, and in the second week along comes dashing, dark, Basque architect Fermin who falls in love and marries her. I met Susi and Fermin last year and was invited to come and learn some new skills in the garden whilst on my Camino. The day arrived and they handed me a hoe, a rake and a pair of gloves. Eager to start, I flung the bundle down, stepped forward to put my gloves on, trod on the head of the hoe and felt but didn’t see the full force of the pole smack me in the face. With a new respect for garden implements, I set to trimming lavender bushes and weeding raised beds rather more circumspectly, and finished a not inconsiderable patch before supper. Twelve of us around the table, from all four corners of the world, sharing stories over a feast of wild garlic hummus, avgolemono, tiramisusi and local wines. “I’m collecting words of advice and would welcome any you have,” says Rebecca, a sweet 17 year old pilgrim, eager to absorb scraps of knowledge and positive affirmations from the wise elders gathered there. I was about to venture a trite cliche borrowed from Oscar Wilde, but felt that something learnt from life’s experiences might be of more value, so, touching my bruised forehead, I offered “Never trust a lying hoe.” This was translated as “Nunca confies en una p**a mentirosa” which everyone agreed was very wise advice indeed.