08/29/2024
2024 Super Stock Rules
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection,
ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS! ***
NO PASSENGERS!!!!!!
Call Junior Cardwell 1660-216-4251 for any questions
- All rules will be followed, or you will not run!
- Any American make sedan can run. No 1970 or older Lincolns, No 1973 or older imperial sub-frames , No 2003 and newer Ford, 4x4, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc.
- Driver must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s licenses. Ages 16-17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of identification. The person that signs in as the driver for the event must be the driver.
- Driver must wear seat belt, long pants, and helmet. Fire suit recommended.
- All drivers and crew members must attend the driver’s meeting. Any controversies will be taken up at the driver’s meeting.
- DO NOT HIT the DRIVER’S DOOR!!!!! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield as it may cause you to get disqualified.
- Any open driver’s door or will cause disqualification.
- NO holding!!! You will be disqualified. You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1- minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
- No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be disqualified.
- Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 protest fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature may protest another car, driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to protest and must provide specific item being protested.
- Any questions give us a call! If it does not say you can do it, don’t do it, call first. Judges decisions are final!!!!
Car Preparation & Building
- All glass, plastic, chrome, interior, decking in station wagons, and all trailer hitches and brackets must be removed.
- No tires larger than 16”, no split rims, no studded tires. Doubled tires, flaps, foam
filled tires and wheel centers are ok.
- You must use a radiator in stock location.
- Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell and it must be securely fastened in center of back seat area.
- All cars must have working brakes. Pinion brakes are allowed.
- Tr**ny coolers are allowed if you choose to run one, must have well-made lines with secure fittings, FUEL LINE IS NOT OK!!!!
- Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard area and securely fastened.
- You MUST have a roof sign!!! Minimum size 16”x16”
Frame
Bumper:
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper may be used on any car, but no more than oneset of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to run in your class and on only one side of the frame. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods.
First way – factory bumper bracket that is legal to a car in your class may not extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only). You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1⁄2” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart to lengthen.
OR
Second way - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down either a side, or the top, or bottom of the frame choose only one cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 14”. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be welded on either side of the frame or the topor bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT.
You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails 3 Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). The bumper may be built up to have a 14” point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the point over a 36” span and 8” tall. Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame. Wagons do not weld the bumpers to the body.
Frame Shortening:
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches from the back of the bumper to the front of the spring pocket.
Frame Welding:
You may weld top and bottom of frame seam from front side of A arm forward 1⁄2 wide. A total of 14” of welding allowed behind the a-arms. All welds must be marked with orange paint. This will allow the 79-02 FoMo Cars to cut and tip the box and reweld with 14” of weld and the old iron cars to reweld the seams wherethe factory missed or any other factory welded seam. Do not weld the front frame or box to the side rail. 03& newer fords may not touch the firewall body mount box. If a car chooses to pie cut and use the14” of weld they may do so in the side rail only do not use the cross member to support it. If you choose to cold bend the car do not support with the cross member. These are the only ways to benda fresh car.
Rust Repair
Notify us before fixing any rust on the frame. Then you are allowed to go 1⁄2 inch past the hole with 1/8 metal material must leave rust
Frame Shaping
NO frame shaping is allowed.
Front Suspension:
Tie Rods and Ball Joints – Aftermarket tie rods allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size ball joints. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. stock size car replacementball joints and tie rod ends are allowed, no pickup or van tie rod ends. The stock size replacement ball joint may be welded in, or you may use a 1” tall sleeve 1⁄4” bigger od than the ball joint for a screw in ball joint like a k727
A-Arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles
Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
Rear Suspension:
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 3⁄4” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can clamp springs, 6 homemade clamps per side. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. Eyelets must be in factory location of the car you bare running. 2” arch one direction from center of eyelet to eyelet.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other way. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted (single bead no wider than 1⁄2”).
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. Max chain link size 3 1⁄4” OD. You may use a 1” bolt or all thread from your rear end housing to the package tray. You may use both the chain and the 1” bolt to help hold rear end in car. You cannot leaf spring a factory coil spring car.
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS
• They must bolt to package tray with 4 – 1⁄2” diam. Bolts No welding of the upper brackets to package tray.
• The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail.
• The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford.
• Lower frame brackets may be 1⁄4” X 3” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located.
• All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
• No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
Trailing arms: You may load a factory set of trailing arms or use 2x3 tubing. They do not have to have a bushing. No bigger than factory size bolt. Control arms must pivot
Rear- Ends:
-Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8 lug rear end. - You can tilt rear end if you wish.
- Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
- Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 1⁄2” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing.
- No changing out rear package trays on frame. - You must use the factory brackets that came with the car you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
- Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups.
Tires:
Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are allowed in this class.
Motor:
-Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
-Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed.
-Mid Plates are NOT allowed.
-Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing, attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down. -NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector if the sway bar is removed.
-Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 1⁄4” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything.
Transmission Bell Housing & Plate:
-You may run an aftermarket bell housing, case, and tail housing. You are allowed 1 loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with one link welded per side orbolt it down with 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft mount. May be chained tight.
-You can run a transmission brace. It must contour to the transmission and not extend more than 2” off the transmission. Can only tie into your bell or bell housing plate and only be attached to the engine by the bell housing bolt. Protector may be no wider than. 12” where it contacts the cross member. May be bolted or chained to the cross member. No welding. Does not have to have slide.
-May run a bell housing spacer if you have a short bell. May only be attached thru the bell housing bolts. Must stay below the heads and a maximum of 2 inches wider than the bell housing itself and not allowed to come in contact with the sheet metal or cage at any time.
Transmission Cross Member:
-You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission. This can be out of another car legal for this class. OR
- use a straight piece of 2x2 tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission. NO HOMEMADE TR**NY CROSS MEMBERS!! -Tr**ny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross member on. Angle iron must remain 90 degrees.
Body Shaping:
Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust out; weld 1” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT. If you have to restub your frame do so under the front doors but do not support the splice with cross member. NO 03’ and newer rear frames attached to an 02’ an older front frame.
#9 Wire:
-You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops)
-You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose. 9 wire must be used in a twisting method. No using it to fill a void or stuffing it between something. No tie wire rolls, no full rolls of wire. Must only be used in a tying method!
Radiators:
For mounting radiators, you may use (4)- 1⁄2” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. NO radiator guards allowed. May use factory ac condenser or a piece of 1/8” expanded metal in front of radiator. Attached with 4-3/8” bolts.
Body Mounts:
Body mount bolts can be replaced with 3/4” bolts and can only be 8-inches long, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x 1⁄4” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a 2x3x 1⁄4” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a 3⁄4space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it to the body or the frame mount, not both. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location. Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hood & Front Clip:
-Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 10 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 10 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars.
- You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
- Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
- You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Windshield Bar & Firewall:
Firewall- DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
Window Bar- For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.
Doors
-You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material. If you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using 1⁄2” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points.
-You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door and also the passenger door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
Cage
All cage material must be no larger than 6” od besides side bars, unless specified for specific rule smaller. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down that includes being 4” off of the transmission/tunnel. Side bars may be no wider than 6” material but can be 12” tall and must be 4” off the floor. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only.
You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Side bars may go to the front side of inner wheel hump not welded. Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, contact us first. Halo bars and rear down tubes must remain in front of rear seat body mount.
Gas Tank Protector - You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It may sit against the rear sheet metal which cannot be moved or removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
Trunks
-You may weld your trunk lid shut 5”on 5” off with 3x5 1/8 material. -You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
-(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
-GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles and a arms may be switched to a direct bolt on. No welding, and fabbing tomake it work.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like Grey Area or Budde cradle or you can grab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, 2 other attachment points in center of cradle with 1⁄2” bolts and must remain inside the inside rail. No wider than the factory cradle holes, call if any questions. Repair plates may be used to tie cradle into the rails.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
7. Must follow all other rules, any questions call Austin before assuming it will be OK!!!!!
Repair plate and pre ran rules.
Fresh and pre ran cars will be allowed 8 6x6x1/8” square plates. They may be formed and folded. 1⁄2” weld max and must be an inch apart including the welds. They can not attach to the engine, transmission, engine cradle, or transmission brace.
Pre rans will be allowed 6 additional places of 9 wire. Nothing to drive line or protectors and must be used in a twisting method.
Restubbing cars. Must be the same year, make, and model of the car you are stubbing. 1⁄2” butt weld only and the frame must follow factory frame angle and contour.
If pulling a pre ran car down and pie cutting it to get back to factory must be done in the side rail behind firewall body mounts.
If you cannot read these rules and don’t follow them you will not run.
MJC Promotions holds the right to refuse any car that does not seem safe enough to compete. This is in the best interest of the driver, and other competitors
