06/12/2024
2024 (UNIFIED) FULL-SIZE BUILDERS CLASS
Entries in the Demolition Derby are open to men and women who have a valid Driver’s License. The Following regulations shall be observed for safety and fairness to all. Orderly conduct is required of all drivers and pit persons. If not, any driver and or people affiliated with that car will be evicted without ANY refunds or prize money. Misconduct may result in being banned from present and/ or future participation. Any driver or crew member not complying with any one of the rules will be disqualified. Crew members are the responsibility of the driver.
Entries:
1. Each driver must be at least 14 years old.
2. Each driver must furnish their own car. The driver that is registered to the car, must drive that car in the heat assigned to them. Unless the officials are notified of a driver change and approve it.
3. Hearse, ambulances, jeeps, trucks, convertibles, mini vans, SUVs, or commercial vehicles will not be allowed.
4. All cars will have to pass inspection before the tech line closes.
5. Prior to the start of the driver’s meeting, each driver must sign an entry and a release form.
Participation Rules:
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backwards.
2. Hitting an opponent’s car in the driver’s door is not allowed and will be cause for disqualification.
3. Must make a damaging hit (from a spectator’s point of view) every 60 seconds. No team driving or sandbagging.
4. All drivers must attend the drivers meeting prior to start time.
5. All drivers must remain in their cars until the car is removed from the track. Unless an official removes the driver.
6. No driver or pitman under the influence of alcohol will be permitted to enter the arena or to participate.
7. Any driver not in place when called upon will be disqualified.
8. Pitmen are not allowed in the arena during a heat.
9. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.
10. No one under the age of 12 will be allowed in the pit area. Different events have different age limits. Please ask the promoter for the show that you are attending.
11. Cars may be inspected at any time for reinforcements, etc. Top 3 finalist will be subject to reinspection after the finish of the finals.
12. Car and driver in the inspection area only.
13. Cars will be inspected on or off the trailers.
Preparation Of Cars:
1. Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not specifically authorized by the rules are strictly prohibited.
2. Do not read into the rules! Just read and follow the rules! Not following the rules will result in you being loaded. Your choice!
3. The drivers name should be above the number on the front doors, or you can run a number sign. The number sign cannot reinforce the car. No obscenities or allowed.
4. Concrete, metal plating, wood, foam, or pins in the frame will be considered added ballast and will result in the car being loaded.
Welding Exceptions:
1. All cars must be welded 5” on 5” off with a max of 3” wide 1/8” thick strap. This includes doors and the trunk lid. Also includes the tailgates on wagons. The driver’s door may be welded solid.
2. No added material inside the car with the exception of the cage components.
3. No frame welding is allowed other than in the specified areas.
Drivers Compartment:
1. 4-point square cages only. All cage material must not exceed 6” material. All cage material must be on the inside of the car compartment not inside the door skins. No external door bars allowed. All cage materials must be 4” off the floor, this includes the trans tunnel. Gussets only in the interior of four-point cage. All halo bars are allowed to have (2) 1/2” bolts with 1/2” washers to attach to the roof. Halo bars may go to the top of the cage side bars only, in the vertical position. Material not to exceed 2”x6” rectangular tubing. Nothing can extend off the front or the back of the halo/rollover bar in anyway. Can have a total of (4) down bars from the bottom of the side cage bars to the top of the frame rail. These bars cannot touch the Crush boxes, “S” curves, or any other curve in the frame. Down bars cannot exceed 4”x 4” material.
2. Gas tank protectors can only be 24” wide and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank protector halo must be 6” away from the roof minimum and must be inside of the window opening. Gas tank protector can touch speaker decking sheet metal, but the sheet metal cannot be altered or removed. Gas tank protector halo can be connected to the roof halo, but material must be inside the car. Max material is 2”x6” and these bars cannot go any further back then the backside of the gas tank protector. Unibody cars can run (2) down bars from the bottom of the gas tank protector to the top of the frame or sheet metal instead of using the halo down bars. (Example for Mopars). Call if you don’t understand this! All cage material must be 6” away from the firewall and 6” from the inside rear door seam. There must be a 6” gap between cage sidebars and rear hump sheet-metal on all two door cars. Side bars not to exceed 62” in total length.
3. No rear window bars allowed.
4. Station wagon decking must be removed.
5. Window seams may be rolled over and welded. No added material.
6. Gas tanks are to be placed on the gas tank protector. 20-gallon tanks max. Must be secured. No plastic boat tanks allowed. No fuel leaks!
7. Transmission coolers and oil coolers may be placed inside the car and secured. All fans on coolers must have a cover for safety. Cannot context to frame!
8. Battery boxes may be in the passenger side floorboard or attached to your cage. Must be secured and covered. Max of (2) batteries. Cannot connect to frame or crossmember.
9. All aftermarket straight column steering is allowed. 03 and up cars must run rack and pinion steering if that’s what came with that car.
10. All aftermarket brake/gas pedal set ups are allowed and can only bolt to the floor sheet-metal. Cannot attach to frame or crossmember. Cannot strengthen the car.
11. You are allowed 3 locations of #9 wire, builders choice. These are (2) loops per locations, total of 4 strands per location. No chain or cables allowed.
12. All factory gas tanks must be removed from factory locations.
Bumpers:
1. OEM bumpers and homemade bumpers are allowed. Homemade bumpers not to exceed 8” material. Back of the bumper to the front of the point of the bumper not to exceed 14” deep. All points must have a base point of 36” wide minimum. Replica prefab bumpers are allowed. Loaded OEM bumpers allowed.
2. OEM bumpers may be used on the rear of the car or a piece of 4” x 4” tubing or 4” pipe can be used. The ends cannot be capped. Must not exceed the width of the rear of the car. If it’s unsafe you will cut it off. No pointy’s or replicas pointy’s on the rear of the car.
3. All bumpers may be loaded.
4. Switching bumpers from make to make is allowed. (Example Chevy to Ford).
5. You may weld the rear bumper straight to the frame or follow the rules for the front bumper if using a shock.
6. You may weld the factory bumper bracket to the frame. Must be in factory location and bolted to frame with factory bolts.
7. You may hardnose bumpers.
8. If you choose to hardnose, no shock can be used at all. (Follow the shortening frame rules found in the frame section).
9. You may cut the frame square to fit the bumper if you choose to hardnose. (Follow the shortening frame rules found in the frame section).
10. No attaching bumpers or frame to body except in specified ways. (Example is #9 wire rule)
11. (1) 10” x 4” x 1/4 thick flat plate may attach from the back of the front bumper on the exterior side of the frame. If running this plate for a bracket, all factory shocks and brackets must be removed.
12. Bumper height not to exceed 22” from the bottom of the front bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the rear bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Body Bolts:
1. All body bolts are allowed to be changed to 3/4” all thread.
2. All body bolts or all thread must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have a 1” metal spacer minimum per location changed. Spacers cannot be any larger than a factory body spacer size (2”). All bottom nuts must be inside of the frame. Absolutely no welding allowed to mount body bolts. Body bolt locations cannot connect to another body bolt location. No welding the spacers to the frame! Only (2) of the k-frame bolts can be changed in a Mopar.
3. Body components must be direct bolt up only. Do not put a sedan body on a wagon frame, etc.
4. (2) 1” pieces of all thread are allowed at the core support. Must be through the top side of the frame or bracket only. All thread can weld to the frame but not the body. 1” minimum space between core support and frame. All spacers cannot exceed 2” material. Cannot weld core support spacer to frame or core support.
5. Factory stamped washers on the inside of the frame. (1) 3”x 3” x 1/4” plate on the topside per body bolt location. Plates cannot touch other plates.
6. Do not add body bolts.
Hood:
1. Entire Hood most open for inspection.
2. Must be in stock location.
3. You are allowed (6) total hood bolts in any configuration. The core support bolts count as hood bolts if they come through the hood. No hood bolts bigger than 3/4” all thread is allowed. (1) 3” x 3” x 1/4” plate per hood bolt location. Plate must be on the top side of the hood.
4. 1” all thread hood bolts or allowed to connect to the frame at the core support. Firewall hood bolts cannot connect to the frame in anyway.
5. Hood must cover the entire fan area.
6. There must be a hole big enough in the hood for a fire extinguisher to be used in case of a fire.
Frame:
1. Top frame seams, a -arms forward, can be welded. 1/2” bead only with a single pass.
2. Cold tilting, cut and tilting, and re-stubbed cars are allowed. 03 and newer cars must tilt in the side rails only. 14” of weld to tilt. If you cut and tilt at the box, DO NOT FOLD THE TABS OVER AND WELD THEM DOWN!! NO FRAME SHAPING!! If car is cold tilted, the 14” of weld can be used on the top side frame seam behind the a -arm. (Example old iron gm). If you cut and tilt, then you cannot use the 14” of extra frame seam welding. If you don’t understand call!
3. Rear frame maybe dimpled or notched in 2 places per frame rail.
4. Frames maybe shaped on rear humps only. Wheel side of frame only. This is the only frame shaping allowed period!
5. You may shorten any new iron car up to the front of the core support hole. The factory core support tab must remain in the factory location, with a factory weld. Remainder of tab can be welded to the bumper. Please call if you don’t understand this rule.
6. Old iron cars may shorten to the front of the core support hole on the frame or bumper bracket. Any old iron car that has the core support hole in the bracket must leave the bracket in the factory location, with the factory bolts. Bracket and frame can be shortened to the front of the core support hole on the bracket. Both the bracket and frame can be welded to the bumper. Bumper bracket can also weld to the frame. If the bumper is hardnosed to the frame and bracket, the shock must be removed completely.
7. Frame repair plates are at the discretion of the promoter for the show that you are running. Please call the promoter for the show that you are running!
8. You may restub a car using only 14” of weld, (1)1/2” bead, with no added material per frame rail. All restubs must be make for make. 03 and newer stubs can only be used in 03 and newer cars. All sub car restubs must be direct bolt up!! Have questions please call. All 03 and newer cars must be restubbed in the side frame rails.
9. Any metal found inside the frames will result in the car being disqualified and it will be loaded.
10. After any car passes inspection, you will not be allowed to add repair plates to the frame or body in any way! Do not weld your frame or body after heat. Remember cars will be reinspected.
Suspension:
1. You may change springs to a stiffer OEM spring. Doubled springs are OK if in the rear.
2. Shocks and Suspension must main stock! No all thread in shock locations.
3. You may change upper a -arms to a stamp steel car a-arm. This means cut the bar out of the a-arm and run individual bolts if the car you are running came that way factory. Adapter plates are allowed if the car has a factory steering box location on the frame rail. 03 and newer must run the rack and pinion style steering. All steering components must remain stock, or stock replacement, in stock locations for all cars!
4. Upper a -arms may be welded down using (2) pieces of 2” x 3” x 1/4” strap per upper a-arm per side of a-arm. Half the a-arm strap must weld to the upper a-arm and the other to the wheel side of the frame. Push this rule you lose it completely. Lower a-arm cannot be welded to the frame in anyway. Stock spindles only. Must be a car spindle!
5. Leaf springs- 7 leaf total pack per side. No flat stacks! Must have 1” stagger between leafs on both sides of the spring. No leaf’s exceeding 3/8” thickness. (6) clamps per side. Not to be exceed 2”x4”x 1/4” thickness flat strap and can use (2) 3/8” bolts per clamp. Hangers must remain stock but 1” of the hanger can be welded to the frame per hanger. Hanger and spring must bolt together. Springs cannot be welded together. Must pivot!
6. Rear suspension may be chained down with a max of 3/8” chain. One loop from frame rail to rearend per side.
7. Rear control arms may be changed. Can lengthen or shorten. May be loaded. You may also make your own control arms out of 2” x 2” x1/4” tubing. Aftermarket control arms are allowed. If these are used to strengthen the car you will change them.
8. Watt’s Conversion kits allowed but only the lower brackets can be welded to the frame. Brackets cannot strengthen the car. 3”x3”x1/4” tubing max for lower brackets and can only weld to the inside of the frame, not the top or bottom of the frame rail. Everything else must be bolted in place.
9. Factory package tray must remain in the car, for that car.
Drivetrain:
1. (4) 3/8” threaded rod and (2) 3” wide straps can be used to hold the radiator in. Can be bolted or welded to core support. This is to hold the radiator in the car, not to reinforce it!
2. Pinion brakes are allowed. Must work.
3. Can use any rubber engine mount. Mounts may be welded to frame only. Mount to frame not to exceed 8“x 8“x 1/4“material. You may extend off the back of the frame cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2-inch flat plate only. (Example SBC in caddy or mopar). Cannot weld the lower engine cradle to the frame or to the mount.
4. OEM crossmembers or 2“x 2“x 1/4“tubing or 2” pipe can be used to make a crossmember. You may use (1) 3“x 2“x 1/4“x 8“ in length piece of angle iron to bolt the tubing or crossmember to. Can use (2) 1/2” bolts per side to bolt the crossmember to the angle iron bracket. (1) Side of the angle iron can be welded to the frame you can only have (1) angle iron piece per side frame rail. If using angle iron, factory ears must be cut off the frame.
5. You may have (2) 5/16 chains, (1) per side attaching from the engine block or cradle to the frame. Chains cannot go any further than the front of the water pump in no further back than the back of the valve covers. Chains can weld to the frame with only two links.
6. Slider driveshafts are allowed.
7. All rear ends must be a stock 5 lug and can be jigged for the car you are running. Rearends can have a back brace only. Brace not to exceed 2”x4”x1/4”. Brace must be 4” away from the axle flanges. This is the only bracing allowed! Rearend cannot reinforce the car in any way.
8. Steel bell housing and ultra-bells are allowed. Factory cased transmissions only. All transmissions and Skelton style braces must set on the top side of the crossmember only and cannot lock in. If the transmission brace is made to lock-in it will be cut or removed. Skelton style transmission braces are the only trans braces allowed. Can be chained to the crossmember with a max of (1) 3/8” chain, single loop. Transmission brace cannot be bolted or welded to crossmember. If not running a transmission brace you may bolt the stock transmission to the crossmember using a rubber trans mount. Relief cuts must be made if running a brace or bell to the trans tunnel. These are to help you not break an expensive transmission, not to reinforce the car!
9. Lower engine cradles are allowed 1/2” thickness Max. Mid plates and front plates can be ran, also 1/2” thickness Max. Cannot be any wider than the engine and cannot be any taller than the valve covers. Cannot touch the frame or sheet metal at any time. All sheet metal must be removed if running a mid-plate. Pulley protectors are allowed but if running pulley Protector, the entire sway bar must be removed. No distributor protectors allowed!
10. All DOT approved tires are allowed. No solid tires or foam filled.
11. No wheel/tire under 12 inches or over a 15 inch will be allowed.
12. Wheels can have small centers in them. 3/8” thickness max. Lip protectors and valve stem protectors are allowed.
13. All brakes must work.
14. Radiators must remain in the stock factory location. Can have water and or antifreeze only.
15. Air conditioner condensing core may be placed in front of the radiator. No guards or expanded metal allowed.
16. Header protector and carb protectors are allowed. Again, no distributor protectors!
17. 03 and up Fords, mercury, and Lincoln please read! The bolt in steel lower engine cradles used to mount the engines are OK but cannot tie to the frame rails in any way. Aluminum stock cradle must be ran.
Body:
1. No Sedagons.
2. Deck lid must be 100% in stock location. Must use a trunk lid off a car, not a hood. You may tuck the trunk with a single 90° bend. You are allowed (2) 3/4” pieces of all thread through the deck lid to the frame. (1) per rail. These must go through a factory body bolt hole and can go to the top side of the frame only. Must be vertical. V – wedging is allowed, rear corners must be vertical. Speaker decking must be in stock location or can be removed entirely. If speaker decking is removed, you cannot weld the truck lid to the floor and make a seam.
3. Removal of trunk lid is allowed.
4. A front window bar must be ran on each car. Minimum of 1 bar, max of 2 bars. Bars cannot be more than 3” wide and can only attached to sheet-metal. This is for safety only.
5. Anything can be removed; nothing can be added unless specified in the rules.
6. You are allowed (8) 3/8” bolts per fender and (8) 3/8” bolts in the hood. All with a max of 1 1/2” fender washers.
7. Body creasing is allowed. Sheet metal only.
Rust:
1. Rusted area must be removed, 1/2” overlap from new metal to old metal. New rust patches must not overlap. You must butt weld, using your stitch weld. Don’t stagger the welds on two patches to have one continuous weld between two patches.
2. New material not to exceed factory thickness.
3. Must be welded 1” on 1” off -abuse it, you’ll lose it – zero tolerance.
4. No rust repair to frames. That’s for the promoter to decide if you can use a repair plate at that location.
OFFICIAL STATEMENTS:
These rules were put together to make a unified class for our area. There are 3 different promoters that have taken this class. Please reach out to the promoter that is running the event that you are wanting to run. That promoter will have the final decision on all car build rules and show rules at their show.
All Judges Decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. Please come legal so we do not have problems!
For all Technical questions Please call the following:
TOP TECH PROMOTIONS: Brandon Lane 620-605-9988
OUTLAW PROMOTIONS: Rusty Owens 620-388-0510
OKLAHOMA BOYS PROMOTIONS: John Reeves 620-870-0254